If you're not good looking by the time you're twenty, you'll never be good looking. If you're not strong by the time your thirty, you'll never be strong. If you're not rich by the time your forty, you'll never be rich. And if you're not smart by the time you're fifty, you'll never be smart. Chinese saying



China I China's Flag
Dedicated to Cheng Ting

CONTENTS

China I China II China III China IV

About
Trip Summary
Chinese History
Religion, Index

Journal
Negotiating
Lying & Face
Index

Journal
Chinese Thinking
Japanese Atrocities
Index

Crazy Boss
Racism
Conclusion
Books, Links



INTRODUCTION


About My China Pages

Fuzhou is located just opposite Taipei (Taiwan), on China's east coast NB: All images provide captions upon mouse-over.
Minor alterations and corrections may still yet be made.

My work on China is something of a journal compiled in post. I have gone through my old emails and selected any that are particular either to China, or to my experiences and movements whilst there. These emails (on pages II and III only) have been edited slightly for general readability, and I have added commentary (in dark blue) where I thought appropriate.

I have also embedded various essays on China throughout these pages, whenever I felt the need to elaborate. I'm trying to achieve an effect where my time in China is chronicled as per a running journal, and where my later opinions (as have somewhat mellowed in hindsight) are espoused within an honest and relevant context.

My China journal is chronological and begins on the next page. As part of my introduction, I have summarised my trip below, and an essay on China's history and consciousness also follows.


Summary of My Trip to China

Sometime in Sydney at the start of 2001, during times of much introspection, I realised that I wanted to spend many years travelling the world. I decided I would spend at least five years journeying from country to country through whatever means - from begging to bar-tending - and I began to save towards this.

After a month or so of further reflection, a friend of mine suggested that I could travel the world as an English teacher. I instantly fell in love with the idea. I love reading and I aim one day to be a writer, so teaching English seems both appropriate and beneficial. I also felt travelling as a teacher to be a respectable accomplishment. It hadn't occurred to me that I could have a profession whilst bumming around the world.

I soon applied to do an English Language Teaching course through Cambridge University known as the Cambridge CELTA. It's an internationally recognised teaching qualification of some distinction, and it pretty much means that I can teach anywhere in the world. At this stage, I began telling people that my immediate aim was to find a teaching job in Japan, but as I spoke of Japan I continued to read books focused only on China. Having completed my course, I then began applying for jobs in China, but still I spoke of Japan. As I looked for work overseas, I taught for three months in my hometown of Christchurch, and only when an offer came from China did I realise that I had coveted China all the while. Sometimes what's on the lips can prove quite a contradiction to what's on the mind.

On the 3rd of December 2001 I celebrated my birthday and my last day in Christchurch. I flew out on the 4th. I spent a couple of nights in Hong Kong and then on the 6th I arrived in Fuzhou (a fairly large but neglected city in Fujian province, on the coast across from Taiwan [run your cursor over the map above]). I remained in Fuzhou for one year as an English teacher and overall I had a thoroughly good time.

After a couple of very exhausting months of practically nothing but teaching, I had several weeks off for the Chinese New Year. I was able to visit Shanghai for one week and see tremendous places nearby. All in all, I did about four separate trips throughout China. This included the one just mentioned to Shanghai, another throughout Fujian, a week in Guilin, and eight days in Hong Kong and Macao. The final trip culminated in Beijing, where I had accepted a teaching position and had hoped to stay for another six months. I was in fact destined to leave within a month. All up, I spent precisely thirteen months in China, and then returned to New Zealand at the beginning of January 2003, in hot pursuit of my very beautiful Chinese girlfriend, Ting.


A Chinese History & Perspective

Part I: Perspective

Index
civilisation | dynasties | opinions | democracy | tibet | empire | minorities | mongols | mandate of heaven | writing | religion (confucianism, daoism, buddhism, islam & christianity, popularity, atheism, deity, falun gong) | continuity | central kingdom | zheng's fleet | resistance | opium wars | foreign exploitation | mao vs chiang | long march | taiwan | hong kong & macao | hundred flowers | great leap | cultural revolution | persecution | mao's death | perspective | deng xiaoping | tienanmen | progress | banks | law | censorship | backwardness | world power


By way of a caveat, although I am an armchair historian, the purpose of this section is neither to get detailed and technical, nor caught up in dates, quotes and references. I merely aim to give a general overview in order to arouse my readers' interests and to set the context for some of the comments and essays to follow. I have made every effort to be accurate and to check my facts. I base my essay on the opinions that I formed during my time there, and on the knowledge I've gained through meeting Chinese people and through reading many books and Web sites about China. I accept that some people may not agree with everything I write.

Terracotta Warriors, Xi'an To begin, many Chinese I meet like to believe that their civilisation is at least 5000 years old, but all the books I've read on the subject tend to agree on the 4000-year mark (going by archaeological evidence, and the like). Beyond this, it tends to be myth and legend. I find that most Chinese are very proud of their empire and trace it back in dynasties to around this period also, but as far as empires go - as opposed to feudal kingdoms and independent realms - I think that most scholars point towards the Qin Dynasty (said 'Chin', from which China may derive it's name), in Xi'an (the home of the Terracotta Warriors), as being the time and place for this accolade. That still makes her the oldest continuing civilisation and empire in the world, which is not a bad feat.


CHINESE DYNASTIES

Xia [Shia] 2205 - 1766 BC (myth)
Shang 1766 - 1122 BC (myth/fact)
Zhou [Chou] 1122 - 770 BC (the beginning of historical evidence)
Spring & Autumn Annals 770 - 476 BC
Warring States 476 - 221BC
Qin [Chin] 221 - 206 BC (the beginning of the dynasties, and from which China may derive its English name)
Han 206 BC - 220 AD (constituting the Chinese ethnic majority, Han)
Three Kingdoms 220 - 265 AD
Jin [Tsin] 265 - 420 AD
Southern and Northern 420 - 580 AD
Sui 589 - 618 AD
Tang 618 - 907 AD
Five Dynasties 907 - 960 AD
Song [Sung] 960 - 1279 AD
Yuan 1279 - 1368 AD (the Mongol dynasty)
Ming 1368 - 1644 AD
Qing [Ching] 1644 - 1911 AD (the Manchu dynasty)
Republic of China 1911 - 1949 AD
People's Republic of China 1949 AD to present (mainland China)


While I was there, I was amazed by the uniformity of Chinese opinion. I attribute this firstly to a long existing 'Confucius' culture and sense of filial piety, where family bonds are strong and the authority of the State is absolute. Secondly, I attribute this to a relatively recent 'political' culture belonging to communist authoritarianism. This amounts to propaganda, censorship, controlled press, ideology and - given that people have faith in their future, food in their bellies, and other countries to blame for their woes - a proud sense of nationalism. Some authors I've read have likened this to a type of fascism.

Perhaps because of this, I found that almost all Chinese are simply happy to agree with the Government's propaganda, even when they see it for what it is. I have read that where Westerners see 'possibility in debate', Chinese see 'conflict in differing opinions', and this has been used to explain why the Chinese concept of government differs to that in the West. I found that Chinese largely have the same views on everything from history and political opinion, to social etiquette. I would expect much difference of opinion if I asked Westerners whether the war in Iraq was justified. When I ask Chinese about Taiwan, or America, or Tienanmen, or Tibet, or China's future, I almost always get the same answers: Taiwan belongs to China, America was at fault for Tienanmen, Tibet was 'liberated', and China will soon be the dominant world power. The West might think much of China's democracy movement, but the rebels (not meaning to undermine them) are truly a minority.

A good Chinese friend of mine, a successful businessman and a communist cadre, offered this logic: "China has one opinion, the West has another; so the answer's probably found midway between". Certainly, this seems moderate and reasonable, and perhaps it will often prove true on average; but it still sponsors the fallacy that if I believe 2 and 2 are 6, and you believe 2 and 2 are 4, then the answer's found midway at 5. Differing opinions cannot reasonably make 2 and 2 equal 5, and so my friend's argument isn't necessarily as strong as he thinks it is. Some may think I'm just another victim of Western propaganda, but I believe that tolerance, liberalism, democracy, and freedom of press and speech, etc, tend to give us an advantage over cultures where such things are suppressed. When the West classifies the invasion of Tibet [more below] as an invasion and deplores the crimes that ensued, but China officially calls it a local war and claims that they were liberating Tibetan serfs and slaves, my opinion inclines to that of the West.

This insight provides a background to another myth that I believe Chinese foster regarding their history and empire. It is the united view of empire itself, as if China was always one state. When Chinese everywhere proudly trace their history back to the Qin Dynasty and beyond, it's as if all Eastern European states were suddenly to trace their heritage to Muscovite Russia, forgetting that in the past they were fiercely independent. Certainly, a minority of Chinese could trace their lineage back in this way, as can some people living throughout Eastern Europe, but most Chinese have roots elsewhere. The word 'Chinese' is a term often confused with one race of people, but more realistically, by my opinion, it's more comparable to the term, 'European'. If a German calls himself a European, he is not wrong, but I'm sure he would equally consider himself German. If Europe were China, it would be as if the concept of 'German' was lost to the German.

The 'One China, One Culture' theory is culturally philistine, as it completely oppresses the place of minority cultures. It forgets about sixty-four or so ethnic minorities (or non-Han Chinese) who must now learn Mandarin in school. It forgets about the likes of Tibet, where a quarter of the population (one in four million) were decimated after the Chinese takeover, or Xinjiang (approaching Kazakhstan), whose majority Muslim population is systematically being overran by the Han Chinese who emigrate there. As I have known Chinese to do, they then consider the locals to be foreigners. When we see or hear reports of insurrection by Xinjiang Muslims, for example, it is always from the perspective of the Chinese empire. I have seen the BBC dismiss it as local Chinese terrorism, rather than the fight for independent nationalism that it may be.

The One China, One Culture mentality also forgets about most outer provinces that are relatively new members of the empire and who still retain their local languages. According to some linguists I knew, these languages, such as Cantonese and the numerous languages of Southern China, are wrongly termed 'dialects'. In Fujian, practically every city or mountain tribe has their own language. Each can be as different as Spanish is to Italian. Where in the past it was a common written script that gave them a basic sense of identity [more below], now it's requisite that all schools and universities conform to Beijing standards and teach Mandarin. Where many provinces once nurtured their own cultures, now it's as if they were always one. The East European states resented Soviet imperialism for centuries, and eventually proclaimed their independence. In China the reverse is true. The children of the resistance have become the partisans of the victor.

Furthermore, when it comes to history, completely foreign influences have been absorbed as if they were Chinese from the start. Take, for example, the invasion of the Mongols in the 13th century. The Mongols moved in and established the Yuan Dynasty [1279 - 1368], where the Chinese were for ninety years second and third class citizens in their own country. They were decimated and subjugated in the same way as everyone was from the Middle East to Russia. Six centuries later, and many Chinese I know claim that they once had the largest empire the world had ever seen. Sorry guys, but no! It wasn't your empire. It was the Mongols.

China's last dynasty, the Qing [1644 - 1911, and said 'Ching'], was established after the invasion of another (formerly) nomadic peoples, the Manchurians, who came from beyond the Great Wall to the north. It is another example of China's ability to absorb foreign influences and eventually claim them as their own. The Manchu were not Han and remain a Chinese minority. Their policy had been one of 'Divide and Conquer', where they kept the Han in conflict with other minorities such as Chinese Muslims, Tibetans and Mongolians. The Triad gangs, which now have an international presence, were possibly formed as a resistance group by Ming partisans. And yet several hundred years later, Manchuria is now One with China, and never is it thought by the Chinese (as my Chinese endorsed chronology shows above) that either the Yuan or the Qing Dynasty were foreign rule.

But perhaps for the common people at these times nothing changed too significantly, and this might justify China's claim of unity and continuity. Throughout such empires - which did at least govern from China - many institutions remained. There was Confucianism, preaching its branch of morals amounting to adherence to the State and filial piety. There was the God given 'Mandate of Heaven' (which could either determine a state's right to rule or the people's right to rebel [more below]). Then there was the system of administration. Rather than through inheritance, cadres came to rank by passing the state examination system, which focused on Confucius teachings, and which could possibly explain the devotion to rote learning and needless memorising that I watched many Chinese undergo. Other institutions could of course be found through religion [more below], and in the various pagan beliefs of the peasant community, which even today amounts to 90 per cent of the population (or close to a billion Chinese).

The largest uniting force of all, by my opinion and as I have already alluded to, must surely have been the common writing system. Where Europe was to lose Latin as its lingua franka and diverge along with diverging vernaculars and alphabets, China could sponsor many vernaculars and dialects, and yet continue to communicate through written symbols. For example, the English number 'One' might seem quite different to the German 'Eins' or the Polish 'Jeden', but most countries are now familiar with the numeral '1'. Indeed, most mathematical signs are fairly universally recognised, such as '$' or '%', despite their having no phonetical component and different names to represent them across different languages. It is more-or-less the same with Chinese pictographs, or hanzi. In this way, where two commanders from different areas of China might have had no hope of understanding one another through the spoken word, they could always understand one another's writing, and this significantly influenced the Chinese people's sense of political and cultural unity. Almost to defeat my earlier point, if the peoples of China were independent at various times, and if the Yuan and Qing dynasties were indeed foreign rule, then it must be acknowledged that something remarkable about Chinese religion and culture soon homogenised all outsiders. The result is that all these lands are now part of China, and the Han Chinese continue to rule.

Here follows an embedded essay on China's religion. I think it works in appropriately.
Otherwise, go straight to Part II: History



CHINESE RELIGIONS

confucianism | daoism | buddhism | islam & christianity
popularity | atheism | deity | falun gong

An essay on China's history would hardly be complete without some reference to its religions. I will mainly discuss what I consider to be the Big Three.

Confucius: Ming Dynasty portrait Confucianism, which is arguably more a philosophy than a religion, dates to the teachings of Confucius, or 'Kong Qiu', who lived in the fifth century BC. However, it didn't really take hold in China until the founding of the Han Dynasty [206 BC], when his ideas were given state approval. At the heart of Confucianism lies li (proper behaviour) and jen (sympathetic attitude), and the relationship between individuals, their families, and society. "Its practical, socially oriented philosophy was challenged by the more mystical precepts of Taoism and Buddhism, which were partially incorporated to create neo-Confucianism during the Sung dynasty [960-1279]" [From 'Summaries of world Religions']. Where the Communist Party once denounced Confucianism, it now invokes its principles, for they more-or-less advocate submission to rule.

Daoism's famous symbol Daoism (or Taoism, according to the old Latinised spelling which is no longer endorsed by China) possibly dates back to around 600 BC and was supposedly founded by Lao Tzu. When dealing with the spirit of it's teaching, it definitely rates as a philosophy. Otherwise, it is partly religion and largely superstition (not unlike tarot card reading or astrology).

One book to read on the matter, and which I've read myself, is the I Ching. It theorises that an ever-changing universe follows the Dao, or path, and to know the Dao one must follow the universe's 'quiet simplicity'. We have all heard of Ying and Yang. Ying represents concepts such as female, light, white and love, etc. Yang can represent male, dark, black and hate, and so on. Together, they embody the harmony of opposites and advocate balance in the universe.

Biting ThroughI also found Watching the Tree, by Adeline Yen Mah, very helpful in understanding the principles of Daoism. Similar to tarot card reading, one can reach conclusions about the path they should follow according to a complicated ritual whereby, as per the diagram, sticks are laid down to form patterns of straight bars (yang) and segmented bars (ying) in a hexagram. The hexagram shown is named 'Biting Through' and it is supposedly blessed [according to 'The I Ching on the Net']. Essentially, Daoism advocates going with the flow and accepting one's predicament. Along with Confucianism, this philosophy undoubtedly influenced the Chinese way of doing things, and it is yet another principle invoked by the Communist government.

Buddha, Hong Kong Buddhism, which began to trickle into China from India in the first centuries of the common era, grew to be approximately as influential as Confucianism and Daoism. One can see many Buddhist temples and statues when travelling throughout China, but unfortunately, many of the best temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Buddha statues made for good target practise.

Buddhism was founded around the 5th or 6th century BC by Siddharta Gautama (a sheltered prince who, at 29, finally left the protected confines of his palace, despaired over the suffering around him, and lived a life of poverty until he eventually found enlightenment whilst meditating under a tree). His view was that we all live many lifetimes, and that these lives can be good or bad depending on one's Karma, which in turn is determined according to one's actions. It follows that after many such lifetimes, through meditation, and through following a path of practical and theoretical righteousness, one can eventually achieve Nirvana. Siddharta Gautama came to be known as the Enlightened One, or Buddha.

Buddhists believe that Existence is a realm of suffering, brought about because of desire and ego, and that the achievement of Nirvana ends this suffering. Heavily influenced by the former two religions, Buddhism took many forms in China, with Zen Buddhism being at the core. It doesn't take many glimpses inside Chinese Buddhist temples to see that the result is a curious mix of piety and idol worship.

Islam also has an influence in China, especially in Xinjiang, which is dominantly Middle-Eastern. In my experience, many of the people who practise Islam in China have faces that most of us wouldn't even consider Asian. Xinjiang Muslims are a Turkic people, and yet demographically they are considered Chinese.

According to the BBC's 'Religion & Ethics', Islam came to China in around 650 AD when the third Caliph of Islam sent a deputation to China. The Chinese Emperor, who was impressed with Islam, "ordered the establishment of China's first Mosque". Since religious freedom was declared in China in 1978, Islam has regained a footing, and now there may be over 32 thousand Mosques throughout China. 23 thousand can be found throughout Xinjiang.

The Christian Evangelists also had their effect and I met quite a few practising Chinese Christians. According to one unofficial source [yutopian.com] there may now be as many as 30 million practising Christians in China.

As to the popularity of these religions, my sources grossly conflict, and so I won't reference them all. One more credible source claims that Buddhism is China's most popular religion. Several less credible sources claim that Islam is most popular, followed next by Christianity. The BBC lists China's major religions in this order - Buddhism, Christianity, Islam, Daoism - but it's not clear whether this is respective. The CIA records these figures: "Daoist (Taoist), Buddhist, Muslim 1%-2%, Christian 3%-4%". I raise an eyebrow at these contradictions, but, given the discrepancies, it remains outside the scope of this essay for me to further consider the histories and practices of these religions.

It is very difficult for me (or I believe, anyone) to know how much religion still plays a part for the majority of 900 million or so peasants, but in the cities I found that most people I knew were hardened atheists. Given that atheism in China was a matter of oppression and propaganda, it might be considered a kind of religion too. The people were taught to follow a certain code of ethics and beliefs: in this case the belief that there is no God other than the Communist Party or the Deity, Chairman Mao (whose iconic portrait hangs from millions of walls, thousands of car mirrors, and God-knows-how-many key rings). If China had religions that were traditionally very popular, such as the Big Three above, this doesn't mean that they are so popular any more. When talking about the upper classes, at least, the perspective I gained was one where religion plays a very minor role.

A rally in the US marking (at the time) four years of persecution by the Chinese government China also has some rather controversial religions, and Falun Gong is one of them. The impression I think we get in the West is one of a persecuted minority who merely seek religious tolerance. The impression in China is one of a religious cult whose deluded practitioners do everything from mass starvation to burning babies.

We are all well aware that in China the government dictates the truth, but in the West the truth can be equally distorted by differing social paradigms. We are not there to know the situation. For instance, when we see Chinese Falun Gong practitioners protesting outside Chinese embassies in Western countries, the media naturally speaks of religious intolerance and concludes that these are an oppressed people. But in contrast, China's attitude surprised me. There, the view is that most of these people are trying to get on the news, so that they can then claim to be hunted foreign exiles and avoid being sent back to China at the end of their visa period. I suspect that both views have some element of truth. Those living in China can't practise this religion even if they want to, and so their views are arguably suspect. At the same time, it seems strange to me that I never met any Falun Gong members in the thirteen months that I lived in China, but when I lived in Auckland they were to be found marching down our streets. My Chinese girlfriend, Ting, can't stand them - but then she is a Communist cadre and she has permanent resident status in New Zealand.

One thing I learned is that many Northern Chinese - especially those who have recently found themselves jobless in an emerging capitalist market - have taken to the religion or cult in an act of desperation. Some Chinese tell me that the belief teaches that through meditation and enlightenment one can overcome their body's need for food and shelter, etc. The possibility of this must seem pretty attractive to malnourished families. On the other hand, this might explain why the government imprisons Falun Gong members. Few governments tolerate their citizens starving themselves to death. But then, it might also be that the Communist Party sees in Falun Gong a child that reminds him of himself when he was young: A largely peasant group, starving, oppressed, and opposed to the existing order, who might grow up to rebel and revolt.

[Anyway, for more on Falun Gong, see Friends of Falun Gong. Ting won't be impressed with this reference.]


Part II: History

Returning to the historical component of this essay, the Chinese Empire flourished with remarkable success and continuity, and ever increasing unity, as it watched other empires - from Rome to Russia - come and go. While the peasant majority toiled the land, often in brutal and oppressive hardship, the ruling class ruled on. When Marco Polo toured China in the 12th century, he spoke of a civilisation far in advance of any he'd ever seen. To him, Fuzhou (the city where I lived and worked) proved so full of every possible amenity as to be 'a veritable marvel'. Dynasties ruled for centuries, fought furiously to maintain their control, but were inevitably justified as obsolete by the succeeding dynasty, who then invoked the Mandate of Heaven as their pedigree: God had allowed them to gain power because the last dynasty had gone into disfavour, as proved by various natural and social disasters, etc.

Through most of China's long history, it was the most advanced empire in existence. Many neighbouring cultures borrowed from her and it was only in the last three hundred years that Europe finally raised to her standard and then, in terms of military might, etc, surpassed her. From the world, she took very little. To the world, she gave gunpowder, paper, printing, wheelbarrows, the compass, silk, ceramics and the Chinese restaurant (although some of these may have come independently to the West, as inventions sometimes do). The name by which she called herself was 'Zhong-guo', or 'Central Kingdom', and that was her perspective on the world. When Europeans later brought gifts (as according to their customs of diplomacy), China accepted them as tribute from submissive realms and assumed her superiority.

Zheng's massive flagship, as compared to the European ships of the ageChina might have already been the World Power that she may still yet become. Between 1405 and 1433, decades before Christopher Columbus sailed blindly to the Americas in rickety rowboats with sails, Admiral Zheng He [said 'Jung Huh', 1371 - 1433] had confidently navigated the oceans of South-East Asia, India and East Africa (around the tip to the Atlantic Ocean), with a fleet of some 317 ships, some of which were perhaps ten times greater in size than Columbus's. In contrast, even Cook's ships were only about thirty metres in length several hundred years later. Jung He's ships were multi-storied and up to 110 metres long. To look at contrasts between these vessels is to put me next to a team of rugby players. All would have been different if a massive fleet like this had first colonised the Americas. However, this was not to be, as the Chinese Emperor soon had the fleet dismantled and China once again withdrew into herself. Unlike Europe, she was not to take a great interest beyond her own boarders.

[For more, see oceansonline.com (who provided the diagram above), or time.com.]
China's modern history was just as turbulent and heartbreaking as anywhere. She went on pretty much undisturbed for centuries and grew ever more certain of her institutions. The peasants were confirmed in their peasantness. The emperors, who were secluded within the walls of the Forbidden City, grew increasingly ignorant of China, and power was increasingly influenced in practise by the eunuchs who were the Emperors administrators. Much later, when a Chinese businessman hoped to introduce sowing machines for the production of shoes, the shoe-makers closed him down. When a metal worker was commissioned to complete an unusually large project by an emperor, he asked to be allowed to take on extra apprentices to help him. This broke the society's allowance of one apprentice each, which stood for the sake of regulating the market. 150 or so members conspired to bite him to death by each taking one bite only, with the logic that no one bite could be said to have killed him and so no one could be charged with murder. The Emperor was not impressed and the person who took the first bite was executed.

Time after time, China (or her officials) demonstrated that she was not interested in change or modernisation. Where perhaps the peasants may have benefited from controlled change, the Emperor and his administrators were comfortable and happy. When the English attempted to establish free trade with China sometime in the 1800s, the Chinese Mandarins (officials), claiming that China had no need for Western goods, insisted on placing all manner of tariffs on the English goods. The English soon became indignant at the imbalance of trade, so they found a way around the Mandarins by introducing the Chinese both to opium and addiction. "The most serious bone of contention involved treaty relations: because the British refused to submit to the emperor, there were no formal treaty relations between the two countries" [Richard Hooker]. The Chinese demanded the right to deal with British criminals on Chinese soil, but the English refused to hand over British citizens to Chinese courts which they felt were 'vicious and barbaric'. All this eventually led to the Opium Wars of the 1840s [beginning in '39], where English troops marched to Beijing with their superior fire power, and then subjugated the Emperor. He was forced to make many concessions, including Hong Kong.

After this, it became party season for the imperialistic Western powers and Japan. With territory in the Americas and Africa now fairly much determined, everyone wanted a slice of China. The English, Russians, French, Germans, Americans and Japanese all moved in, and established their concession areas. With this began the disintegration of the Chinese Empire and by 1900 it was done for. Out of desperation, some Chinese formed a determined xenophobic movement, known as the Boxer Rebellion [1900], where 'foreign devils' were murdered indiscriminately. For the first and only time Europe united to violently oppress the reactionaries. Japan helped. For the next fifty years, China was destined to lead an oppressive life with unconsolidated power, feuding warlords, rival government factions and foreign exploitation. When the Japanese invaded Manchuria, they were horrifically violent [see, Japanese Atrocities]. Only the most bitter, desperate and determined causes could find their footing in this environment, and as we all know it was to be the peasant-backed communists.

The famous portrait of Mao in 1936Mao Zedong (left), onetime librarian at Beijing University, started out as a peasant's son in the south of China. He read up on socialism and actively sought and established debating forums. He soon became well recognised in the revolutionary ranks, where eventually two leading camps emerged - the Communists, and the Nationalist Party (or Guo Min Dang [as spelled in modern pin-yin]).

The Guo Min Dang was headed my Chiang Kai-shek (right). It had American and Soviet sponsorship and for some while it looked as if it would come to consolidate power. Chiang Kai-shek, leader of the Guo Min DangAfter a bloody coup in Shanghai [1926] against the communists, with whom they had formerly been in alliance, the Nationalist Party held the cities (with their capital in Nanjing) whilst Mao Zedong took the initiative to organise resistance in the country side. Mao's plan was to "to surround the cities with our countryside and eventually take the cities". At the time, the communist ideals proved very appealing to the peasants, who had for so long been oppressed and exploited by the land-owning class. Wherever the communists went, they redistributed land, and for the majority the situation improved. Consequently, the peasants were ready to fight off any government that threatened a return to the former status quo. This act helped lead to Mao's dominance within the party, and with 90 per cent of China being peasants, this was eventually to prove the Nationalist Government's downfall.

In Hunan in 1927 Mao organised the disastrous Autumn Harvest Uprising. In 1934, having withstood five encirclement campaigns launched by Chiang Kai Shek (who was also trying to hold off the Japanese in Manchuria), Mao led the 100 thousand strong Red Army on the Long March, which supposedly covered 12 500 km. Famously, they crossed eleven provinces, eighteen mountain ranges and twenty-four rivers, during which point Mao asserted guerrilla tactics and ousted rivals until he had gained absolute command of the Communist Party. Only twenty-eight thousand marchers, many of whom had joined the march along the way, made it to their ultimate destination in Shaanxi province. Once there, they quickly established a strong base.

The communists finally took control of the country in 1949, forcing the Guo Min Dang to escape with its navy to Taiwan, where they promptly set up camp. This later lead to the contention over Taiwan. At this point, history showed the Nationalists to be no better than the communists, as they were a violent socialist dictatorship themselves (and under them corruption was rampant), but America maintained it's backing and for a long while the communists didn't have the navy or the resources to do anything about it.

It seemed to me for a long while that China had no claim to Taiwan, which was internationally recognised as an independent, sovereign state, but now it all seems politically questionable to me. For a thousand years Taiwan was a part of China, it is ethnically comprised of Chinese, and many Taiwanese I know would like for Taiwan to one day be a part of mother China again. But before this happens, they must first be sure that the Communists won't drastically alter the democratic capitalism on which they now thrive.

In this respect, Taiwan is supposed to look to its neighbours. With Hong Kong and Macao, there is now 'One China, Two Policies'. This means that although both these districts have formally returned to China (in '97 and '99 respectively), the government still allows them degrees of autonomy and sponsors duel economic strategies. Simply, Hong Kong and Macao work, China knows this, and so they haven't interfered too significantly.

Meanwhile, Taiwan is watching. China hopes to show Taiwan that if she comes back to China, everything will be good. I think that this is very likely true, as the Communist Government strikes me as progressive and pragmatic these days. Every year, however, the Communists try to take more and give less to Honk Kong - leading to massive street protests - and so perhaps only the future can tell.

When I taught English in Christchurch, New Zealand, my Chinese students out-numbered the Taiwanese five to one. My Taiwanese students sat quietly and shaked their heads whenever my Chinese students proclaimed that Taiwan [already] belonged to China. In China, I found that no Chinese could even consider the possibility of Taiwan's sovereignty.
Following the Communist takeover, things progressed relatively well, which is to say that some hardship was better than absolute hardship. [Some authors feel the contrary - that the Communists' failed from the start - but for me the question is not whether China was an ideal place after the Communist Revolution, but whether it was comparatively improved.] Soviet Russia soon changed camp and began backing the communists, and Mao began following the soviet model of the 'Five Year Plan'. [Later, the Soviet-Sino Split of the late '50s almost resulted in Russia staging a pre-emptive nuclear strike on Beijing.].

After various difficulties and disappointments, however, things went well astray when Mao declared the 'Hundred Flowers' period [1957]. The idea here was that thought and creativity was to flourish ("Let a hundred flowers bloom") and people were supposed to freely criticise the government. It was Mao's opinion that "... we can really foster correct ideas, overcome wrong ideas and really settle issues". Of course, this promptly backfired, as the party apparatus was not prepared to deal with such criticism. With the Party's hierarchy under threat, Mao changed his mind and promptly persecuted many of those who had taken part.

Tragically, Mao Zedong then called for 'The Great Leap Forward' [1957-61]. China was supposed to become a leading industrial power, and this was to stimulate the Chinese economy towards the levels reached by the Americans. It was the same tune as the Russians had been singing, and in both cases it cost the citizens dearly. Mao's idea was to demand that every community meet a proscribed quota of smeltered iron. Peasants were to build backyard smelters and to extract the iron from the earth. This would provide China with more iron than it could have otherwise hoped for in so short a time, and thus provide a cheap means to meet it's industrial needs.

To meet this quota, people were forced to tear down picture frames and door handles, and everything iron, to supply the furnaces. This produced extremely low-grade iron which found little use and practical benefit. What resulted was brought about because the peasants, who should have been out toiling the land, were committing themselves to this futile endeavour. The grain output quickly fell alarmingly below the proscribed levels, but the figures were falsified (as happens in totalitarian societies where feedback cannot come from the bottom up). Around 550 000 people, who protested against this radical change of pace, met with their deaths, and before anyone had time to stop it the country was thrown into a massive famine. Perhaps to protect the Mandate of Heaven (where such a tragedy would [rightfully] undermine the government) the communists suppressed this horrible reality from its people and the world, and so millions of people who may have benefited from international aid perished.

Around this time, Edgar Snow (an American correspondent and writer [see, Books]), was able to tour China relatively unhindered by the authorities and report to the world that everyone was alive and well. But China can conceal much within her massive lands. Estimates now have it that very likely somewhere between 30 and 60 million people starved to death in this period. It counts as one of the biggest tragedies of the 20th century, and virtually nobody - including modern Chinese - know anything about it.

Study the 16 Articles, Become Familiar with Them and Put Them to UseUnfortunately, amidst the conspiracies and power struggles that followed, Mao Zedong finally lost the plot and succumbed to megalomania. He purged much of the government (the later Chairman, Deng Xiaoping, was twice jailed) and appealed to Chinese school and university students to turn against their teachers. Workers were also to turn against their managers. With their arm bands and their 'Little Red Books' (of quotations from Chairman Mao), the students then formed a Red Guard and began terrorising the country in a campaign against bourgeois values and 'closet capitalists'. It was to become known as The (Great Proletarian) Cultural Revolution [1966-76]. Perhaps Mao's aim was to 'wipe the slate clean' of China's burdensome traditions and institutions so that a new China could be rebuilt. Perhaps he was blaming the failure of the Great Leap Forward on China rather than on himself.

Firmly grasp large-scale revolutionary criticismFor ten years, with Mao Zedong reigning as a de facto and immovable emperor, China (with her people now clothed identically in blue and green) experienced the worst of totalitarianism. Families were torn apart. Neighbour spied upon neighbour. Children were encouraged to report on and denounce their parents. Communities were institutionalised to such an extent, largely under direction of work units or 'danwei', that an individual couldn't even marry or have a baby without approval from above. Former landlords and landowners, who had already suffered incredibly, were terrorised to the point where even their grandchildren were stigmatised and discriminated against. And this was supposedly an egalitarian and classless society! Teachers, intellectuals, and even politicians were hunted down. Hundreds of thousands of youth and students were sent to the countryside (often willingly at first) so as to remove their sense of privilege and teach them peasant ways. Many never returned. They became China's 'lost generation', having missed out on a proper education. Just as Stalin purged all the original Bolsheviks in his 'Terror', many Chinese communists were themselves terrorised by student mobs. (I have met former members of the Red Guard, as civilised and rational as anyone, who plainly admit their part in those years. I know university professors who did their time in the countryside.)

When Mao Zedong finally died in 1976, the country wept. ("I remember that we all had to stand outside our school and cry for most of the day. I cried, but I didn't really know why I was crying", said one of my old friends, speaking about when he was around ten years old.) As the country organised itself in the aftermath of the Cultural Revolution, the infamous 'Gang of Four' (Jiang Qing [Mao's fourth wife], Zhang Chunqiao, Yao Wenyuan, and Wang Hongwen) were tried in front of the country and the world. It was a mockery nothing less than the Nuremberg Trials. They received their sentences (where capital punishment was to be overturned) and Mao was set up inside a mausoleum (now known as the Mao-soleum) in the middle of Tienanmen Square. The plaque more or less reads that, after a certain period, he may have made some mistakes. In Deng Xiaoping's words: "To build up Mao's errors too much would only damage the image of our Party and our country, and harm the socialist system". The official view remains that 'Mao was 70 per cent right and 30 per cent wrong', and I heard this quoted by Chinese friends and students many a time. One wonders how such a calculation is made: "Well, he caused absolute misery, but he was also right about the football, yesterday's spelling-B winner, and the colour of his wife's hair. Three out of four's not bad".

Nevertheless, I will agree that he was an amazing man and that his leadership was incredible at least up until about the mid-1950s. Perhaps we should blame mankind, rather than a single man, for allowing a dictatorship to take effect where the inevitable megalomania and corruption could cause so much wrath. And we must remember where China had been before Mao led in the Reds. The Communists took a country that was plagued by anarchy, feudalism, bandits, famine, unemployment, corruption, and all such things, and turned it into a state where practically everyone was fed and employed (most of the time), where there was some manner of social order and justice, and where there was at least some sense of equality.

But this is all relative, of course. To a citizen of developed nations, China's plight may seem like oppression and suffering at its worst. My point is that it was a lot better that what was and what could have been, and we must be careful not to ignore such relativity. Gone was concubinage, where concubines had absolutely no rights and were either abused by others or forced to abuse others themselves. Gone was female slavery into marriage and prostitution. No more was there the horrific foot-binding of girls (although, that had been phasing out). In their place came universal education, fairer distribution of land, and increasing international power and prestige. The plight of women was drastically improved, as men and women were to be treated as equals under the communists. Stability replaced instability. Perhaps we can look back with hindsight from our sheltered positions and find fault and blame in China's post Revolution woes, but by my opinion China was considerably worse before 1949 (having been raped and abused by foreign powers for a hundred years, and having been victim to a system that was riddled with corruption and arbitrary justice). The question in my mind, therefore, is not whether the Chinese Communist Party made mistakes, but whether it shall continue to make mistakes in the future. Simply, will it lead the country and its people forward, or backwards?

Deng Xiaoping To begin to answer this question, several years after Mao's death, Deng Xiaoping (the former political prisoner who had lost a son to the Cultural Revolution) finally emerged as China's new Chairman. He was not Mao's choice. This man was wholly more sensible, moderate and enlightened than Mao ever was, although he was not without his faults. He opened China's doors once more to foreign trade. From his ideas emerged such quotes as 'To get rich is glorious', and he advanced the idea that one person's wealth is not necessarily the cause of another's poverty. It became accepted that some might get rich quicker than others. The main idea was that the entrepreneurs could help bring the others up, rather than the 'crabs-in-a-bucket' policy where the poor held everyone else down with them.

Based on what I've read, Deng Xiaoping held a moderating influence within the party. He supported Democracy Wall in Beijing, where people could post up what ever they wanted. The seeming contradiction when it was pulled down may well have been as a result of the counter-influence of various communist hard-liners within the party. Perhaps this also throws some light onto his failure over the Tienanmen Square massacre in '89. Students and sympathetic workers continued to protest and fast despite earlier threats until someone (not necessarily Deng) called in the army. Comprised mainly of poorly educated and apolitical peasants, the army eventually did what armies do: It opened up its guns on the panicking masses. Thousands went to hospital and a conservative estimate is that around five-hundred students and workers lay dead. ("I was held back in my career and my studies after that", said a language student of mine who had taken part in the protests as a student of Beijing University. "Now I'm just happy to lead a simple life and to be left alone".)

I don't believe it's known whether it was Deng who ordered the guns. My suspicion, as I've read, is that amidst the chaos someone made a judgement without consulting Deng. Deng then had to accept responsibility as the head of the government, for it wouldn't seem strong leadership for the leader to lose control of such matters, and since then his reputation has been tarnished. He resigned from office soon afterwards.

I feel that my perspective as a later-day witness, if not as a historian, proves interesting also at this point. I spoke to many Chinese about the matter and several themes ran strong. One was that they seemed to know very little about it. The other was that many blamed America for interfering and for 'arousing the students to protest'. It shows how these things go, because from what I understand, America was doing it's best to stay out of it. But then there's a large Chinese population in America. Considerable pressure must have been on the government not to ignore the situation, and so America made sure that it's correspondents got the story to the world. Whatever the case, America is China's scapegoat for the Tienanmen protests. 'America should learn to stay out of China's affairs', as I heard time and time again.

To read about the changes that have happened in China since Mao's death is incredible. The change from a totalitarian central economy to an authoritarian market economy has been dramatic, and as its economic growth keeps rocketing ahead (up at plus 9.1 % in 2003), so does the standard of living. What's to come is not for me to guess (and guesses about China are demonstrably precarious, no matter who's making them), but what I witnessed was a completely different country to the one I had read about in books - some of which were only five or six years old. Take a book from twenty years ago, and it's as if you're comparing North Korea to Japan.

In the years since Deng Xiaoping, until very recently influenced by Jiang Zemin (who still holds control over the military forces - and so it beats me who's really in power), China has sought continually to open itself up. It joined the WTO (World Trade Organisation) while I was there in 2002, and, as it sells off its lumbersome state-owned enterprises and invites in private ownership, it continues to integrate with the World's economy. This year, China's Premier, Wen Jiabao, has announced that "the constitution will be changed to allow private property ownership for the first time since the Communist Revolution in 1949" [bbc.co.uk]. People have choices again (who they marry, where and what they study, if they travel, what they do for a career, etc), and the cities are becoming more and more vibrant.

But China still has many burdens and difficulties to overcome. For one, there are it's failing banks, which, according to Gordon Chang in 'The Coming Collapse of China' [see, Books], have been forced to carry the burden of China's failing state-owned enterprises by indiscriminately approving ridiculous loans. Perhaps this is so that the Chinese government won't have to acknowledge a deficit there. But then who else but the government has to prop up the banks? It's a logical circle. My advice: don't put your money in there! [see my negotiating horrors' essay: Banks.]

There's also her legal system. Everyone from America to Amnesty International is constantly having to put pressure on China's government to release various political prisoners, etc. Recently, I've read that there's has been some success; but these may only be the famous ones, as it's "well received abroad". Perhaps it remains as it was in Mao's time, whose policy was: "We kill small Chiang Kai-sheks. We don't kill big Chiang Kai-sheks." [From Wild Swans, p. 184.]

Ting and I knew one Chinese lawyer who gave this answer when I asked her about the legal system in China: "Oh, Jonny. Every day I'm very upset. If I want to win a case, I must bribe the judge. Innocent people go to jail unless I bribe the judge." Presumably, guilty people might also bribe the judge to buy their freedom, but for innocent people it's worse. Of all the jails in the world, I wouldn't want to find myself in the Chinese Gulag.

Then there's Jiang Zemin's American educated son. He wishes to further oppress the Internet by establishing a separate mainframe. This would mean that Internet users wouldn't be able to access China's Sites, and vice versa. When I was there, all of Beijing's Internet cafes were being closed down under the excuse of their being fire hazards. But then every building in China is a fire hazard! [see my journal, China II: Fire.] Already, China blocks many foreign and local Web sites, such as Amnesty International, the BBC's pages on China, as well as (unbelievably!) my own.

Finally, as a legacy of communism that I myself witnessed, there remains in China a crippling social backwardness. China is still a place where ten people do one person's job. One might easily find a hundred Chinese staff working in a supermarket over there, where the same supermarket would only warrant ten staff in my own country. Partly, this is the government's way of keeping people employed with at least some food in their bellies, but then it's not really the way to go about capitalism. For now, it's running horribly inefficiently, but then I guess that this problem will solve itself as capitalism becomes a greater part of the national consciousness.

Summer Palace, Beijing The Chinese government proclaims that it is 'doing communism in the Chinese way'. Partly, I think that this is face saving. It wouldn't do for the Communist Party's 'Mandate of Heaven' to suddenly proclaim that it wasn't a communist party. But also, I think it is just a reflection of the Party's pragmatism towards matters these days. Who cares about ideology any more? Time after time the ideologies of the Twentieth Century brought about the very opposite of what they were aiming for; and this meant misery. China has watched Russia's collapse with cautions eyes - Mao's famous statement, "Russia's today is China's tomorrow", has been long since forgotten - and so she's not about to pull the rug out from under her own feet in the same way. Any change must be gradual. Personally, I'm every bit behind her, and it is my guess, as many Chinese believe, that China will join America as a dominant World Power within another twenty (and possibly ten) years. I just hope that by then her influence is moderate, tolerant and somewhat more open to democracy.



Copyright © Jonny B Harman, 15 March 2004



From here, proceed to China II